Chillin' in Chobar

This cute little village sits on a hill about 40 minutes by bus from Pharping (yes I take the bus on a regular basis because it makes me feel like a local). I have an Irish acquaintance who runs this school for nuns and she had kindly offered to show it to me. The nunnery is right at the top of a hill (as all old fashioned boarding schools seem to be) so there is a bit of huffing and puffing to go through but the view is fabulous and totally worth the effort.

The view from the roof of one of the school buildings

The nuns range in age from 4 to in their early thirties. They usually come to the school because their parents are no longer able to support them financially so this is the best way of getting an education. Traditionally in Tibet, the middle daughter would always become a nun however this rule has relaxed in recent years and there is now more of a choice than before. The classrooms were small but much nicer than the ones I had in high school! They take part in regular nepali classes along with tibetan and their shedra studies (the study of buddhist philosophy). They have exams in both grade 8 and 11. I was told fervently that the grade 8 exams were ridiculously hard and didn't really believe it until I was helping Kumar's nephew prepare for his english exam. I can now attest to It's unnecessary difficulty. Most of the girls don't really go home during the holidays but their relatives sometimes come to visit them. While I was there, the girls were on their holidays and most of them were playing in the yard. They found us europeans fascinating and although they were shy for the first few minutes, they made up for it by being extra cheeky the rest of the time. By the end of the morning I was considered one of the sisters.

The girls wait in line for lunch 

Our tour ended around lunch time and I took a peek in the kitchen and saw that the food was being prepared by the younger nuns. Our guide told us that it had been a real struggle to get them to eat any vegetables which they call "rabbit food".

The smiling one kept calling me her sister

 After seeing the school, my friend vey kindly showed us around the village where we encountered some seriously cute puppies who waddled after us as we wandered through the streets. Our last stop was a Newari temple with an interesting story.

Da puupppiiiiiesssss. 

The walls were covered with plates which were hung in remembrance of people who had died or to celebrate the nuptials of a happy couples.

Rumor has it that one day a local man was walking down to the river when he came across a statue sitting in the river. He asked the statue what it was doing there and the statue told him that she had been thrown there by another town who blamed her for all their misfortune. The man was devastated that a god would be treated in this way. He noticed that the god was looking upward towards Chobar and so he called the village folk and got them to carry her up the hill and place her where the temple sits today. 

me taking a picture of the plates 

Pharping, the place of many posibilities

Thus far, I have only written about the places I have travelled to from my current location in Nepal. Today, I would like to tell you about the charming little town that has been my home these past few months. Although Pharping is no metropolis, it provides all that one could need both on a physical and spiritual level.

My accommodation is located on the outskirts of town right on he edge of the incline from which tiny roads meander down to the base of the kathmandu valley. My favorite spot is on the roof which thanks to nepali architecture, is flat. On a clear day, you can see the snowy peaks of the himalayas in the distance which turn pink as the sun goes down. Ok, so my room is no great shakes by european standards but with the price of full board and food being around 5 euros, I can hardly complain. I even have hot showers on occasion which as I have mentioned in my previous post, is quite a novelty in Nepal.



What to do? 

Pharping is probably most famous as being the place near which the buddha, Guru Rinpoche is rumored to have attained enlightenment. Walking to the cave requires a certain amount of physical exertion which certainly increases the level of gratitude one feels on arriving at the quaint entrance.

The handprint of Guru Rinpoche

Like most temples in Nepal, there is a place where you can offer money in exchange for lighting some butter lamps. In Tibetan buddhist culture, it is believed that by offering material things you will accumulate merit which results in what they call "good kharma" meaning that something positive will happen to you at some point in the future. The best time of day to go is either early in the morning or just before six in the evening when it closes. These are the times when there are the least amount of people.

In my opinion, there is only one place to eat out in Pharping, Kumar's Sikkimese restaurant in which I am a frequent occupant. My favorite dish would have to be his special chips chili which is a beautiful concoction of spices and my favorite vegetable of all time, the potato. Kumar was kind enough to impart me with the recipe and even a little demonstration to boot! The food is simple but flavorsome and fresh with a wide range of dishes to chose from. When the electricity is out, the tables are illuminated by candles providing an ambient atmosphere. Sometimes, some of my friends will join me and we'll indulge in a jamming session which Kumar and his family always find greatly amusing.

above: Kumar's spice selection below: chips chili in the wok

Kumar's Chips Chili

- A few potatoes

- garlic 

- ginger 

- a few shallots

- tomatos (preferably cherry) 

- carrots

- timbur (spice powder) 

- masala spice 

- vegetable sauce/tomato sauce  

- salt 

- sunflower oil (for frying)

Cut the potatoes into wedge size pieces. Heat up the oil meanwhile prepare the veggies and spices. Blanch the potatoes and then drain most of the oil. in a separate pan cook the onions until soft and then add them to the potatoes. Add the spices and then all the other ingredients and then allow to cook slowly for a few minutes. 

Take a hike!

The only reason I do exercise is for the reward of eating something tasty afterwards. Crystal Earth is a restaurant, a guesthouse and a charitable organization. All of their produce is organic and really delicious. It's about an hours hike from Pharping if you're in good shape but if you like walking at a more leisurely pace on the steep incline, it would probably take you about half an hour longer. The food is layed out like a buffet with a selection of meat and vegetable dishes. The highlight would definitely be the mushrooms which are grown on site and absolutely delicious especially cooked in butter with a bit of lemon, salt and freshly cracked pepper. The food is not cheap, but it's the atmosphere you pay for anyways and that is definitely worth the money!

below is a link to the webpage for crystal earth. Here you can find about more about the project and buy some of the products including their extremely expensive clothing range if you're interested.
http://crystalearthfamily.com/visit-us/

Another place to hike to from Pharping is the Hattiban. The food is not as good but he view is even better in my opinion. It takes just over an hour to hike there and expect to be breathless at the end. Below is a picture of the kind of view you can see from there. That line that looks like fog is actually pollution from the city. I would recommend checking the weather before going in case you miss out on the view. You can also access both places by taxi if you're feeling lazy. I'm not sure how much it costs but I imagine it's quite cheap.

view of the himalayas from the Hattiban. 

Off to the Jungle

Chitwan National Park

With a whole week of free time on my hands, I decided to travel to the Terai region in Southern Nepal. The jungle was very popular for poaching in the late 50s and 60s and a large percentage of the animals were killed. Fortunately, it became a world Heritage site in 1984. Chitwan was the first national park established in Nepal and by far the most popular. The activities available range from bumpy jungle safaris to performances from the local indigenous people.

How to get there

Chitwan is easily accessible from everywhere in Nepal. I opted for the Greenline tourist bus. It costs 40 dollars return which includes lunch. The bus leaves from Thamel at 7am in the morning and takes 6 hours. It's quite comfortable and they stop twice for it's passengers to stretch their legs and dash to the bathroom. Apart from the fact that I suffered from severe motion sickness the entire journey, the right was quite pleasant and as we delved deeper into the valley, there were some fantastic views and some great photo ops. The lunch was "ok" but it's exactly the same menu both ways.

view from the bus through tinted windows taken with my phone

Greenline Tours

http://www. Greenline.com.np/

Where to stay

We stayed in a small hotel called 'Chitwan Village Resort' located on the outskirts of Sahaura which is the closest civilization has gotten to the jungle. The location could not have been more perfect. We were only about 15 minutes walk from the entrance to the national park and we weren't next to the river which meant that although it was less picturesque, we weren't ravaged by mosquitos (well we still had some troubles see below). Our room had soft mattresses, duvets and very hot showers that left you steaming and pink. Ramesh the manager/owner of the hotel was really welcoming and organized all our tours for us so we could just relax. The food wasn't good but since we were so close to the village, it wasn't a problem. What was especially attractive about the hotel for me was the fact that the farm next door had two elephants that were bathed every day. I could see them from the chair outside my room.

Chitwan Village Resort

http://www.chitwanvillageresort.com/

What to do 

There were a few things that were high on my list of priorities of things to do during my stay. Right at the top was riding an elephant. As a child, I had seen elephants zoos but I had never actually touched one and was very anxious to do so. I also really wanted to see a tiger but I didn't have any expectations on that front. As I have previously mentioned, we didn't have to organize anything has the hotel offered all the activities we wanted. We opted to relax the first evening as the journey had left us both quite drained and neither of us were keen on getting back in a vehicle. We decided instead to roam the village in search of somewhere exiting to eat. We could hear load music from somewhere in the village and decided to find the source. It ended up being this food festival that happens every year around this time. Although it was no match for the farmer's market back home but there was a nice atmosphere. It was mostly just the restaurants that had a stand but there were also some NGO's selling some cute little felt figurines.

Sunset in the foggy sky. The view from the food festival

Roast wild boar at KC's

On the second day we had a Jungle Safari scheduled for midday which gave us plenty of time to sleep in. I lazily got up around 9 and lounged in the sun until I was ravenous enough to have an early lunch. When it was time to set out, we walked down to the water's edge and after a short wait for passes, we were swiftly crossing the lake in a wooden canoe. Once we reached the other side, we piled into jeeps and set out on our adventure...

some deer escaping into the woods

The fist thing we encountered were some deer. Funnily enough, I'd never seen any in real life before. Unfortunately, they were frightened away when a second jeep pulled up behind us full of loud, obnoxious korean tourists armed with selfie sticks. We continued along the road with the soft air discretely knotting my hair and warming my skin and delved deeper into the jungle. After an hour or so, we arrived at the crocodile breeding farm which which despite it's exiting name, wasn't nearly as exiting as I thought is was going to be. The crocodiles were all just sleeping behind fences and there was no one to show us around. 

some lazy crocs having an afternoon snooze

It was nice to stretch our legs after being in the jeep for so long though and it gave me the opportunity to make the acquaintance of some fellow nomads. After that we drove back through the forest taking a more isolated route and got some beautiful views of the sunset and I even glimpsed a tiger! When I say glimpsed, I mean I saw it's rear as it disappeared into the bushes. Once we got back, we were absolutely starved and decided to go for an early dinner at KC's (the place that was advertising the roasted wild boar at the food festival). I had a chicken tikkka masala and a garlic naan washed down with a Turbourg and it was very satisfying. The garlic naan was one of the best I had ever tasted and I would highly recommend it to anyone who appreciates strong flavours like myself. Exhausted and very full, we headed back to the hotel. 

The next morning, I was due to go on an early morning canoe ride but I had been sick the night before and decided to give it a miss. I heard from some of the other hotel residents that it was spectacularly beautiful but that there wasn't very much wildlife out and about so early in the morning. By afternoon, I was recovered and decided to go for an elephant ride in the community forest on the other side of the village which was still within walking distance of the hotel but as there were several people from the hotel doing at the same time, they very kindly organized a jeep for us. 

me feeding an elephant a banana

I have to say that this is probably one of the coolest things I have ever done. I've done a lot of horse-riding in the past and was expecting it to be somewhat similar.  There were some similarities but the differences greatly outweighed them. I had to put my trust in the man sitting on the front of the elephant while we were packed in a little basket behind him. It wasn't as comfortable as a saddle but felt quite safe in the confines of my little square of space within the basket. The animals in the forest are not remotely phased by the elephants and we got to see a lot more wildlife at a far greater proximity than in the jeep. The high-light was coming across a mother and baby rhino grazing in a field. I would not have liked to come across them on foot because they're huge and the fact that their skin looks like it's literally made out of concrete doesn't make them look any more cuddly. 

mama and baby rhino

sunset in the community forest

some random advice:

The first night at the hotel, both my friend and I were ravaged by mosquitos leaving us with itchy bites all over our faces and arms. However, by the second night we were resolved to keep the rest of our blood and set out to find some sort of solution. My friend told me that they didn't like fans. I was skeptical about this idea but in my desperation, gave it a go anyways and it worked! I don't know if its the cold air or the fact that they can't fly around as well and frankly I couldn't care less but the main point is we woke up the next morning bite free. 

Touchdown - What to do in Kathmandu

I've been in Nepal over 2 months now so I've gotten over the initial shock of being in an Asian country for the first time. Many fellow travellers that I have met on my journey have told me that Nepal is one of the most beautiful countries in the continent and although I don't have the experience to give my opinion on the matter, I can happily say that it has satisfied all my expectations. Nepal is sandwiched between China and India and although both have had their influence, Nepal has managed to maintain most of it's own personality. The streets of Kathmandu are rife with a carcophony of colours, sound and smells and lets not forget the constant smog that is the pollution that has doused the city in more recent years. From the plane, it looks like a heat haze and in my jet-lagged state, I wondered how it could be so hot in winter.

Before I get too distracted in my ramblings, I would like to quickly mention some things about Kathmandu airport. The first thing is prepare yourself for a long and strenuous wait when claiming your baggage and aquiring your visa. It is possible to buy your visa beforehand however I would not advise this as it is more expensive and you have to wait in the same queue as everyone else anyway so it wont really save you any extra time. One thing that will save you some time though is bringing several passport photos of yourself and a pen. They do have machines to electronically fill out your visa form but they are very slow and then you have to queue again to get them checked. Your visa must be payed for in cash as they do not accept credit card. Transport to and from the airport is very easy but don't be fooled by the 'set prices' because it's a load of crap. There is no such thing as a set price in Nepal, everything can be negociated. I have been perfecting my haggling over the last few months and I'm slowly getting better at it. The secret is to be firm but polite. The minute they see that you're not just another stupid tourist, they will respect you for it and give you a fair price.

Although taxi is the most comfortable and safe way to travel through the streets of Kathmandu, it is definitly the most expensive. Most Nepali people either have their own car or take the bus so the taxis are basically reserved for tourists and the drivers know this and adjust their prices accordingly. There are buses that can take you just about anywhere in Nepal for a fraction of the price however, I would strongly disadvise this mode of transport to anyone with claustrophbia. In general, I will only get on the bus if there are seats because the concept of no more space does not exist in the Nepali psyche. People will not hesitate to sit in your lap or cram you into someones armpit and as long as the goats and chickens are on the roof, the driver is cool with it. Don't let this deter you from giving it a go though. I think in order to truly experience Nepal, at least one grueling bus ride in indepespensible.

Thamel

Now lets get to the most important part. The food. Despite the fact that the streets are pretty manky, there are some seriously awesome places to eat. As I have only been here a few months and have been on a pretty tight schedule, I havn't had the opportunity to eat out as much as I would have liked but I will give you the low down on my initial impressions. There are three main areas in the city that host western standard restaurents; Thamel, Patan and Boudanath and each have their own unique flair to offer. Thamel is the main shopping area of Kathmandu and therefore the most modern with wide avenues and touristy shops selling overpriced cashmire and all sorts of others items that you don't need. However, if you dare venture down the little streets past the felt bags and oolong tea, you will find beautiful little markets selling fresh fruit, soft fabrics and an enormous aray of spices. You can find freshly butchered meat that is very exiting to look at but I wouldn't advise you eating it unless you have an insane immune system. You can also find cute little cafés to have cup of milk tea and a sel roti (the nepali interpretation of a donut) or if you feel the yearning for something more Europeen you can go to himalayan java and have a cup of freshly brewed deliciousness from coffee beans grown here in Nepal. They even grind their own beans in the cafe. Although it's quite expensive and not as good as my Italian roast at home, its smooth and delicate and the atmosphere of the place is quite pleasent. They have wifi and even little plugs set into the tables to charge your electronic devices, a serious blessing in nepal as electricty is sparce and without a voltage stabilizer, the plug will probably fry your device. The food is ok, not as good as the coffee and quite expensive for Nepal. The sandwiches are quite soggy but the breakfast is quite good. The muffins are soft and have personality when it comes to flavour and you can get actual bacon which is an essential addition to any breakfast in my opinion.

The view of the Garden of Dreams from the café

                                   

                      

I'd say the best part of Thamel is the Garden of Dreams a small oasis away from the bustling streets. The garden costs 200 rupees to enter but it's well worth the fee. If you have some free time on your hands, It's the perfect place to read a book and enjoy a cool lemonade. It was originally the private garden of Kaiser Sumsher Rana, completed in 1920 and regarded as one of the more sophisticated private gardens of it's time. The more recent renovations were sponsored by the Austrian government. Going to the garden is like stepping back into another time. I mean they actually cut the grass by hand! There are really cozy cushions to recline on in the grass but beware of the squirrels. They are not remotely afraid of humans and will readily steal your snacks on the sly.

A sneaky squirrel steals my sour cream and onion crisps

                                 

There is a restaurant upstairs where you can have dinner. It supports western prices but the food is nice and they have quite a large wine selection which is rare in Nepal. It's also a safe place to eat meat. The Kaiser library next to the garden of dreams was also origionally owen by Kaiser Sumsher Rana. The huge building has shelves upon shelves of everything from theasurouses to fairy tales. The library is full of students who have encrusted themselves in every niche reading endless tomes, perfecting essays and some even drawing cute cartoons of elephants. And the musty smell gives it a the classic personality that all great libraries have

One of the many rooms in the kaiser library

Browsing the shelves at the Kaiser library

Boudanath

Everyone has heard of the iconic stupa sporting the buddha's eyes but even after all the artistic photos on Instagram that I scoured before coming here, nothing could prepare me for the sheer splendor of it. It is revered by buddhists and hindus alike and there is a constant stream of people circumbulating the stupa at all hours of the day and night. Boudanath is the perfect place to buy tibetan singing bowels, post cards and beautiful hand-painted Thankas (tibetan art depicting buddhist dieties). Although there are plenty of shops around the stupa, the small allies have the same products at a much smaller price.

View of the stupa from the ground

There are so great places to eat around the stupa. My favourite place so far is the arya cafe. They have some mean Oreo cheesecake and delicious cappuccinos. If you're looking for something more substantial, there is the happiness vegetarian. Everything there has a sufficient amount of spice and is reasonably priced. I had the vegetarian tofu balls and there were devine mixture of crunchy and soft. They serve huge potions so I would advice sharing a plate unless you're really starving then go for it. Eating there is an adventure because you never know what you're going to get. If you're planning on spending time in Kathmandu, I would recommend that you stay in one of the many guesthouses that are scattered around the area. Although they are a little more pricy than the ones in Thamel, they are so much quieter and theres nothing better than getting up in the morning to the sound of mantras and the smell of insense.